ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

1. Walls

The basis for a good kitchen assembly is reasonably even walls and floors that are as horizontal and vertical as possible. Try to draw some guide lines on the walls and floor so that you get a good overview of how your kitchen cabinewts should fit into your room.

2. Wall cabinet assembly

Although it feels very natural to start with the base cabinets, it's better to begin with the wall cabinets. This way you'll have an easier time lifting and placing the wall cabinets. This will also prevent dust and gravel from drilling falling into your base cabinets and on sensitive pull-out fittings.

Begin by test drilling to determine what material you have in the walls. In older walls, we usually find brick or board wall with plaster. In the brick wall, you need a good plastic plug, preferably approx. 80 mm long. In a board/plaster wall no plug is needed.

Pre-drill the cabinets in the mounting strips inside the cabinets and in the places where you think you will get the best attachment to the wall. As an aid, you can mount a strip on the wall where the lower edge of the wall cabinet can rest when you hold the cabinets up against the wall.

Our filler pieces come in fixed dimensions specified in your order documents. If you need to have a filler piece on one of your wall cabinets, they need to be adapted to the opposite wall using a planer, jigsaw or circular saw. Fillers are screwed from the inside edge of the cabinet. Here it is fine to pre-drill with a 3 mm drill bit using approx. 35 mm long screws.

3. Wall cabinet joining

If you have several wall cabinets in a row, these need to be joined in some way. The easiest is to use a 35 mm screw. A wall cabinet that is 900 mm high needs approx. 5 attachment points to join together nicely with the adjacent cabinet. 3 pieces in the front edge and approx. 2 pieces in the back edge.

Measure and mark carefully so that all drill holes end up in the same place. It is enough that you pre-drill in one cabinet with a 3 mm drill. Use a clamp to hold the cabinets together during screwing.

4. Base cabinet assemby

When all the wall cabinets are in place, it's time to start with the base cabinets. Plinth feet screws for our base cabinets are packaged seperately to avoid damage during transport or collection. Flip the cabinet on its back so that you can access the screw couplers on the underside of the cabinet. Screw in the plinth screws so they protrude about 20 mm. Raise the cabinet up. Lift the cabinet into place carefully so that the plinth screws do not crack or damage. Now place the base cabinets and see how they fit with the walls. Adjust the feet screws so that the cabinets reach a height of approx. 870 mm.

Filler pieces for the base cabinets also come in fixed dimensions, these are specified in your order documents. If you need a filler piece on one of your base cabinets, it may need to be adapted to the opposite wall using a planer, jigsaw or circular saw. Filler pieces are screwed from the inside edge of the cabinet. Here, too, it is fine to pre-drill with a 3 mm drill bit and to use approx. 35 mm long screws.

Use soft clamps to join the cabinets. If you have a dishwasher door, check that the cabinets next to it form a straight front line between them so that the door fits nicely in line with the other base cabinets.

5. Base cabinet joining

If you have several base cabinets in a row, these need to be joined in some way. The easiest is to use a 35 mm screw. A base cabinet needs approx. 3 attachment points in its side to pull together neatly with the side of the cabinet. Measure and mark carefully so that all drill holes end up in the same place. It is sufficient that you pre-drill in one cabinet with a 3 mm drill. Use a clamp to hold the cabinets together during screwing. Mark and pre-drill the cabinets where you think you will get the best attachment to the wall.

Use an 80 mm plug for a brick wall, otherwise screw straight in to the wall. Remember that the pull-out fittings for the drawers are greased with sliding grease. If you get gravel and dust in these, it can be very difficult to get them clean again, with poorer function as a result. Put plastic over them for safety.

6. Baseboard och wall trim

A loose baseboard/front plinth is supplied with all our base cabinets. These are delivered in fixed lengths of 2000 mm width and are 120 mm high. Check carefully that all baseboards fit all base cabinets so you don't cut incorrectly. Start with the baseboards that have pre-cut ventilation holes if they are included in your order-they are used for integrated oven and fridge/freezer cabinets. If you have an integrated dishwasher, it is usually best to let the baseboard join at the adjacent cabinet instead. If you have a cover at the end of the dishwasher, attach the baseboard to this.

When you adjust the height of the base cabinets, remember to have at least 120 mm of free height between the floor and the bottom of the cabinet.

If this is not possible, adjust the height of the baseboard with a planer or circular saw. Then attach the baseboard to your base cabinets. Use a discreet screw and have the attachment point as high as you can so as to hide it from sight.

Similarly, our upper trim pieces are delivered in fixed lengths of 2000 mm. The height of these is indicated in your order documents. Upper wall trim may be adapted to the height of the ceiling. Adjust the trim height with a planer or circular saw. Attach the trim piece with a discreet screw on the inside of the wall cabinet's front edge. If you can miter the corners, do this with a suitable saw, otherwise let the corners meet in the usual way. Finish the assembly by using soft joint in the last joint up to the ceiling and in your corners. Paint over with the appropriate color.

7. Worktops/sinks

Our base cabinets are 585 mm deep and we recommend a 15 mm overhang at the front so that the total depth is 600 mm. On the side of the cabinet, a 10 mm overhang is usually sufficient. Worktops and sinks are best attached with an angle iron. Then they can still move a little. If you are going to install a hob or sink in your worktop, follow the manufacturer's instructions on cutting out this hole. It is important that you seal the sawn edge again with silicone or other prescribed sealing tape. This is to prevent moisture from penetrating the edge and causing the core material to swell.

8. Fittings and handles

Fittings and handles are assembled on site when the kitchen is assembled, except for the Original handles 5181 and drawer handle 5182 which are assembled in the carpentry shop. Our kitchen cabinet doors have a thickness of 19 mm, so a 25 mm long screw is fine here, which is often included in your handle order as standard. When you need to mount handles and fittings on our drawers, a screw of at least 40 mm is needed to go through both the front and the inner wall of the drawer in solid wood, as the total thickness of these is 32 mm.

We hope these tips help you with your cabinet installation and results in as nice and functional a kitchen as possible. Good luck!